Jerry Rigging your Airsoft Gun

Discuss your own custom works and projects here.

Jerry Rigging your Airsoft Gun

Postby Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I » Thu Mar 17, 2005 10:47 pm

Alex_All_Alone wrote:Do Not Try This At Home.
I am a Professional. I have years of experience, training, and skills that you kiddies cannot imagine. I also have access to tools and spare parts to cover my own a$$ if I manage to screw up. If you do any of the things suggested in this thread, I take zero responsibilty for your failures. procede at your own risk

Here are the rules

1). We are discussing Building, Jerry-Rigging, parts that you cannot buy, are too cheap to buy, or too lazy to order.

2). We are not discussing buying a conversion kit from Guarder, or how to set your new Systema gears.

3). Photographs are appreciated, but not nessassary. Step-by-Step how-to guides are nessassary.

4). Do not be a dill-weed who wants to show off the sexy conversion you did, without telling us how we did it, so that we can expand on your learning process.

Alex_All_Alone wrote:Do Not Try This At Home.
I am a Professional. I have years of experience, training, and skills that you kiddies cannot imagine. I also have access to tools and spare parts to cover my own a$$ if I manage to screw up. If you do any of the things suggested in this thread, I take zero responsibilty for your failures. procede at your own risk


Gremelin Gunworks wrote:Disclaimer:
I take no responsibility for damage done as a result of following this or any other features in the "how-to" sections.
I also accept no responsibility for parts bought in error as a result of parts suggested in the features.
I will however attempt to rectify any mistakes to the website which are pointed out to me.
Feel free to check out other sites as a supplier for the parts, the list is simply of where the parts are known by me to be available at the time of writing.
This site is run by a hobbyist and is designed to show how I made my customisations.
No money is made from these features.
Last edited by Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I on Mon Mar 21, 2005 11:36 am, edited 4 times in total.
Image
Member of the AirsoftReview Mafia
Umlaut Rabbit - 28 June 2008, Unchkin Rabbit 29 May 2009
User avatar
Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I
1337
1337
 
Team: N/A
Posts: 7477
Age: 44
Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:39 am
Location: Google makes me clever. Photoshop makes me beautiful.

Postby Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I » Thu Mar 17, 2005 10:55 pm

Replacement Hop-Up Bucking.

So, you know how there is that tiny rubber tube that pushes down through the rubber in your hop-up chamber, that gives the hop-up effect? You know how easy it is to lose that bit of rubber? And then it costs a couple dollars for a replacement, as well as waiting for shipping from wherever you buy it.

Big Annoyance, right?

So, take the swing-arm off of your Hop-Up unit. there is a little cup there, right?

Open up a Big Pen, and cut a little bit off of the end of the Pen, or get a length of copper wire from your garage (or hell, whatever you want that is about the right size).

Cut it so that it fits right inside that little cup, then polish the ends (so that it will not run any danger of damaging the rest of your hop-up rubber).

Then put your hop-up chamber back together. when you put your barrel back in (if you took it out!), you should be able to see the bucking pushing down into the barrel.

Now, if you do this, your hop-up is going to be a little more sensitive, because there will not be as much 'give' (the copper wire or pen cutting does not compress quite the same as the rubber).

That should get you back in the game, and you can always order a replacement hop up rubber later, or put it on a friends order, or leave it be. Does it really matter?

-------------------------------------------------------------
Image
You say:
the hop-up makes me go in circles...
You say:
hehe it's all good
You say:
Care to explain to me what's going on here
I say:
ok - the red part - thats the part you can replace. that is what actually makes the hop-up work
I say:
the green is the rubber tube that fits between the barrel and the chamber
I say:
and the rest is the chamber, and swing arm. The swing arm is the part that cups over top of the red part.
You say:
Oh, I see
I say:
as the swing arm moves, it pushes the bucking (red part) down, making for more backspin on the round
You say:
So the red part rotates or does it just sit there?
I say:
the red is pushed down by the swing arm
You say:
and so when the round (bb) is pushed through the cylinder the red part nudges it into a backspin?
I say:
the red part just sits in the cup on the swing arm. when the bb is pushed up into the cylinder, the air pushes it forward, the red part puts preasure on the top of the bb, so that it the bb has to rotate to pass the red part
I say:
like a wheel
You say:
oh, I see!
I say:
so, as it continues to move, it has this spin on it
I say:
do you play pool?
You say:
Yes
I say:
its like putting top or bottom english on a ball
You say:
Ohhh! God Alex, you are so Brilliant! This makes perfect sense now!
Last edited by Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I on Fri Mar 18, 2005 3:15 am, edited 2 times in total.
Image
Member of the AirsoftReview Mafia
Umlaut Rabbit - 28 June 2008, Unchkin Rabbit 29 May 2009
User avatar
Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I
1337
1337
 
Team: N/A
Posts: 7477
Age: 44
Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:39 am
Location: Google makes me clever. Photoshop makes me beautiful.

Re: Jerry Rigging your Airsoft Gun

Postby Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I » Thu Mar 17, 2005 11:48 pm

Flashlight Becomes a Suppressor

So, you want to have the suppressed Rifle look, without dropping fifty bucks on a fake suppressor? Have a old mag-light (or other flashlight) that you dont care about?

Material List
1 - flash light of appropriate size and shape
2 - JB weld
3 - Tin Foil
4 - thread protector or flash hider of appropriate thread (yes virginia, you can get a AK47 flash hider, and use that for most airsoft guns)
5 - Plastic Tube

Punch a hole in the end cap, then remove material (like all the electrical components, and the bulb-area). I JB Welded the tube that is used for packaging a new Inner Barrel into the center, anchoring one end to an AUG flash hider (most 14x1 left hand AK flash hiders will work, they are relatively cheap and solid) that was wrapped in tin foil and JB Weld, and the other end to the bottom of the flashlight so that it made a suppressor. The tin foil and JB weld wrapped around the flash hider serve to act as a spacer, and filler material that adds to the overall strength.

Depending on how brave you are, you might look into drilling holes into the tube that runs from the hole at the front of the suppressor, to the flash hider, and fill the space between the outer wall, and the inner wall, with cotton batting for a little bit of sound suppressive effect.

WARNING
Kids, if you put this on a real rifle, expect to hurt yourselves. Alot. This is NOT in any way able to handle the preasures associated with a real rifle, while the theorys are similar, the application is very different.
END WARNING

By using a Flash Hider or Thread Protector, you can remove the suppressor from your M4, and attach it to your AK47, MP5K-PDW or SIG552 (along with other weapons)

Now, you can bake JB Weld to make it cure faster. I like to turn my oven on to about 200 degrees, and bake parts for at least twenty minutes. Of course, if you are using plastic, thats possibly not such a great idea.
Image
Member of the AirsoftReview Mafia
Umlaut Rabbit - 28 June 2008, Unchkin Rabbit 29 May 2009
User avatar
Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I
1337
1337
 
Team: N/A
Posts: 7477
Age: 44
Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:39 am
Location: Google makes me clever. Photoshop makes me beautiful.

Postby Silent » Fri Mar 18, 2005 2:41 am

So, did you use a Maglight on the MP5K-Sniper? Or was that just a piece of tubing you found?

Either way, I wish I knew what all you where talking about as far as the hop-up is concerned, if you can, maybe take pics of the little pieces of the hop-up, and if you need a host, I have unlimited space, so holler!

Great thread anyway!
The coffee will generally taste better if the latrines are dug downstream from the mess area....

- US Army Field Manual, circa 1860
Silent
1337
1337
 
Team: N/A
Posts: 2973
Age: 35
Images: 2
Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2005 4:54 pm
Location: Joint-Base Lewis-McChord, WA (GTMO currently)

Re: Jerry Rigging your Airsoft Gun

Postby Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I » Fri Mar 18, 2005 3:47 am

Making your M4 a M4 Commando
We've all seen them. Those Super Cute shortened M4's. . . . . But how to do it, without spending fifty bucks on a new barrel assembly?

EASY. Too Easy.

So, pick up your M4, and pull the handguards off. See a couple allen screws up at the back of the outer barrel, behind the front sight block, remove them. Your outer barrel should slide off, right?

So, now you have your outer barrel in hand, right? You should have two pins, and then, at the bottom, a allen key holding the front sight block to the barrel. Go ahead and remove the pins, and loosen the allen key. Now the front sight block slides up and down the outer barrel right? Go ahead and adjust it to whatever looks best to you - I like putting the 'step-down' in between the legs on the Frong Sight Block. I feel that having the step-down in between the legs of the front sight block gives the most pleasing appearance. You may feel differently, and I can respect that.

If I was you, I would take a tap-and-die kit, and tap out threads on the front sight block, so that you can use screws to hold it in place, instead of pins, or JB Weld. you may need to use a small strip of tape to act as a small spacer between the barrel and the sight block.

Lets say, for amusement value, that you want to use the pins to hold the front sight block on. find a way to scratch the outer barrel in the pin-holes, so that you have a point of reference, then take the front sight block off, and use a file, or dremel, or something to make new channels on the barrel for the pins. Now, put the barrel back on, insert the pins, and tighten down the allen key on the bottom of your sight block.

Thats the easy part. Now you are staring the hard part in the face. Measure carefully, and determine how much of the tube between the barrel adaptor/barrel nut, and the outer barrel you need to cut off. Measure two, or three times, then cut once. You might even want to go to the hardware store and get a replacement tube just in case. A replacement tube would be a really good idea. If a alternative tube is not possible, cut it a little bit long, because you can always remove more material to get the correct fit.

Now, assemble it. It looks good right?

wrong!

There is that big brass inner barrel tube sticking out the front!

Grab that dremel tool. Remove your flash hider, and you should see the threads. Go ahead and chop the barrel off right in front of the threads (like 1mm in front). Now re-attach your flash hider. As an alternative, grab that mag light, and build a suppressor (see previous instructions) so you can have the suppressed commando M4 look, without sacrificing barrel length.

Now, your M4 has that sexy short close quarter battle rifle look, and it didnt break the bank! What did you really lose, other than some range and accuracy? Just a little bit of time . . . . and the respect of all your peers, who now think you're a douche bag who wants to think hes special forces. *shrugs* They were not really your friends anyway, so who needs them?
Image
Member of the AirsoftReview Mafia
Umlaut Rabbit - 28 June 2008, Unchkin Rabbit 29 May 2009
User avatar
Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I
1337
1337
 
Team: N/A
Posts: 7477
Age: 44
Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:39 am
Location: Google makes me clever. Photoshop makes me beautiful.

Re: Jerry Rigging your Airsoft Gun

Postby Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I » Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:19 am

Fitting a Real Stock and Buffer Tube to your M4
This one is going to sound a little weird. I have not done it to any of my rifles, but I worked with a guy named Tyler on his rifle, years ago. I wouldnt try this on a Metal Reciever, unless I was absolutly confident that it was exactly what I wanted. Now, on a Plastic Reciever, its going to break eventually, so who cares?

So, you put your dirty paws on a full stock, or telescopic stock with buffer tube, or even one of those really cute buffer-tube adaptors with a wire stock, eh? Thought it would look really sexy on your M4 while you were at the gun show, then when you got home, you realized that it wont fit quite right, eh?

Idiot. Now, there are buffer tube adaptors available from, is it Guarder or G+P? I forget. Either way, when I did it, they were not available, and since you're reading this, and contemplating doing it, you're not particularly concerned with what Guarder or G+P offers, because you would have to order it, and that means spending a few bucks, plus money on shipping, right? If only we lived in a perfect Communist Society and everone according to their tallents, everyone what they need.

So, what to do now?

Strip your reciever down, and take it with you to the hardware store. You're going to need to size out a bit of PVC Pipe. Go ahead and buy that bit of PVC pipe, or Steel Pipe. You'll need 4 inches at least, so expect to have some left over. PVC will be easier to cut, but Steel Pipe will be stronger.

Now that you're back home, go ahead and measure twice, marking out channels in the pipe, then go ahead and use your dremel tool to cut out those channels. Dont worry if its a little tight, you can always use a file to open it up a little bit, right?

Now, that pipe should fit over your reciever extension, right? with a little bit of fitting work, it will. Something you might want to consider, just for strength, is either
1 - glue it down with JB Weld (draw-back, permanent conversion)
2 - pin, or screw it in place

Now you can go on to the stock itself. but before you do that, go ahead and are-assemble your reciever and gearbox and crap. It should be like a complete rifle, with this ugly tube on the back.

Now, take that buffer tube, or full stock, or buffer tube and adaptor, or shazaam, whatever you have. Slide it over top of the tube. Its really loose (sort of like your mom, right?). You might need to cut a couple threads off of the buffer tube, so go ahead and pull the buffer tube or whatever off of the reciever extension tube. go ahead and wrap it in Electrical tape on the front and back, then slide it on, repeat the process until its nice and snug/tight. If this is going to be a permanent converison, you might want to use JB Weld to make it stronger.

Dont be afraid to use a file to fit parts together really well. The Better the fit, the better it will look. Now you can go head and fit it all together, looks pretty good, right?

Well, it would, if I had done it, but since you did, it looks like a$$. Perhaps you need to take a little more time and make sure that everything fits right, eh?
Last edited by Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I on Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
Image
Member of the AirsoftReview Mafia
Umlaut Rabbit - 28 June 2008, Unchkin Rabbit 29 May 2009
User avatar
Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I
1337
1337
 
Team: N/A
Posts: 7477
Age: 44
Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:39 am
Location: Google makes me clever. Photoshop makes me beautiful.

Re: Jerry Rigging your Airsoft Gun

Postby Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I » Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:32 am

My XM177E2 only has 2 positions on the stock, i want four . . . . . five . . . . or six!

You say:
Alex, great airsoft pimp daddie guru, tell me how i can make my XM177E2 have more than just two positions on the stock?
I say:
Oh, idiot newb, you bought that antique on Ebay, didnt you?
You say:
How did you know?
I say:
Never mind that . . . . Go ahead and pull your stock off. Its really easy. Now you should see your buffer tube, right?
You say:
yes . . .
I say:
Pull out your drill, or Dremel tool, see those indentions in the rail at the bottom of the buffer tube, they're circular and the lug on the stock catches in them, right?
You say:
Oh wow, that makes so much sense!
I say:
Of course. Go ahead and take your tool, and add more indentions. Dont get too buck-wild-crazy with it, because the more you put in, the less of a catch it will have. As long as there is a little space between them, you should be good.
You say:
Sweet! If I trade up to a M4, will this work to give that a 5 or 6 position stock?
I say:
Yes, and it will even work on a M733. I dont see why you need 5 or 6 positions, but hey, whatever works for you.
You say:
Where did you learn to do this?
I say:
Its a really common trick. And really common sense. Guess what - even if you shazaam it up, and have a couple holes too many, and its difficult to set it rapidly, you can use a little JB weld to fill in the excess holes. Still, the best thing to do, is not drill excessive holes in the first place.
You say:
Alex, you're so brilliant! Where would a dumb newb like me be without you?
I say:
In hell. Son, you would definately be in hell.
Last edited by Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I on Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
Image
Member of the AirsoftReview Mafia
Umlaut Rabbit - 28 June 2008, Unchkin Rabbit 29 May 2009
User avatar
Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I
1337
1337
 
Team: N/A
Posts: 7477
Age: 44
Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:39 am
Location: Google makes me clever. Photoshop makes me beautiful.

Re: Jerry Rigging your Airsoft Gun

Postby Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I » Fri Mar 18, 2005 5:39 am

Commando AK47, without the Spetznaz look
I've wanted a "Commando AK" for a while. Something shortened,sleek, and deadly. Unfortunately, I hate the look of the Spetznaz's, especially the tiny grips. If they had full size grips, they would look ALOT better to me. Im also not so fond of a full stock on a commando weapon. It just dosent look right to me. Then I ran into these three web pages
Romanian AK Patterns, Refinishing an Romanian AKSU and Old East German AK Varients (look at the very bottom).

Thats what I wanted to do. Right There. Shorter than a normal AK, full size grips, and a totally unique look. This was no mere shortening of the barrel.

Heres what I had to do to achieve this dream - Cut the hell out of the gas tube so I could recess the Front Sight partially into the gas tube - then fill the stinker with JB Weld, as well as cutting both the front and rear of the outer barrel and cutting down the inner barrel.

Cutting up the gas tube was possibly the hardest part. That gas tube is pretty damn thick metal, and it took a while with a hack saw to cut off the front of the gas tube, then cutting channels in the gas tube for the front sight block . . . blah - that took some time and energy. I cut it a little too thin, and started filing to make it fit. After a couple hours of filing, it FINALLY fit.

Once that was done, I could see how much of the re-inforceing bar I had to cut out. I cut the reinforcing bar back a little further than i had to, because i didnt need the full length of the bar anymore, and because that would give me a little room to stuff filler for when I filled it with JB Weld.

On to the JB Weld. While on the real ones, theres a 'window' still existing in the sight block, I didnt care on this one. It was going to be difficult enough to get it to just fill the whole area evenly so that I wouldnt have to spend another few hours with a file to get it 'just right', so I wrapped the underside of the gas tube, where it mated up with the front sight block with JB Weld with tin foil, then put tape on the sides of the front sight block's "window" to provide something to hold the JB Weld in place, and filled the damn thing with JB Weld.

Once it cured up, I pulled the tin foil off, removed some excess where the tape failed, and poured on more JB Weld. I've been told that JB Weld cures faster when heated - so after making sure that everything was good to go, turned on the oven to 200 degrees, and tossed in the gas tube/front sight block. If I could get it to cure just a little faster, it would make me VERY happy. (For the record - it DID cure faster - I cannot quantify how much faster, just that it did happen more much much more rapidly. The oven was set to 250 degrees farenheit)

Seeing as this was going to be a commando type weapon intended for more of a close quarters fight, and I had just gotten a Hurricane Tri-Rail from Troy, and I thought "I just might need to add a tactical light to this at some point . . . ", because I had chopped out the back of the outer barrel, as well as the front of the outer barrel, i was able to slip the rail mount down the
thin part of the outer barrel, line up a cleaning rod through the hole, and lock down the screws. This DEFINATELY added to the weapon in my eyes.

That part was completed months ago. Right now, I am getting ready to finish the gun. I think I have worked out how I am going to add a functional folding stock, without dropping a hundred and fifty bucks on a Trapper Stock. Keep your eyes open.
Last edited by Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I on Fri Mar 18, 2005 6:15 am, edited 5 times in total.
Image
Member of the AirsoftReview Mafia
Umlaut Rabbit - 28 June 2008, Unchkin Rabbit 29 May 2009
User avatar
Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I
1337
1337
 
Team: N/A
Posts: 7477
Age: 44
Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:39 am
Location: Google makes me clever. Photoshop makes me beautiful.

Re: Jerry Rigging your Airsoft Gun

Postby Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I » Fri Mar 18, 2005 6:09 am

Real (Plastic) Grips on a AK47
Around the start of the year 2005, my good buddy Jordan (Browndogg) bought a set of Real Steel Plastic grips for his AK47 as part of a massive conversion.

Unfortunately, they were not a direct swap.

By removing a few ribs, and filing away some material so that it would fit better under the retainers, we were able to get the upper foregrip to attach to the gas tube. We could have added some JB Weld to make it rock-solid, but laziness, and the thought that one day, we might want to change it, stopped us.

The lower grip was a little more difficult. Around the front was a metal reinforcing strip, that had to go. Using a pair of pliars, we ripped out the reinforcing strip. Then, at the back of the grip, we bent a paper clip into a "L" sort of shape, and added a healthy whollop of JB Weld, in order to secure it to the grip. If you did not know, I believe heavily in JB Weld, and that with enough JB Weld, you can do anything. We then took the collar that usually holds the lower foregrip, and JB Welded it to the front of the foregrip, on the inside (so that instead of wrapping over the foregrip, the foregrip wrapps over it), and slid it back onto the barrel (with the gas tube sliding on right after it, to be screwed down so that it would hold in place).

Overall, it was a very simple conversion, and totally changed the feel of the weapon. I do not know if it would work for other grips marketed by K-Var, but given the simplicity, and durability of the AK47 design, I would hazard to guess that other grips could be similarly modified to function.

For reference, here are the real parts used in this sexy conversion. Lower Grip and Upper Grip
A similar parts kit is made by Guarder, I believe, as their AK103 conversion, however, the price difference between a couple real grips, and a guarder conversion kit is massive (of course the number of parts in the kit is similarly large).
Image
Member of the AirsoftReview Mafia
Umlaut Rabbit - 28 June 2008, Unchkin Rabbit 29 May 2009
User avatar
Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I
1337
1337
 
Team: N/A
Posts: 7477
Age: 44
Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:39 am
Location: Google makes me clever. Photoshop makes me beautiful.

Re: Jerry Rigging your Airsoft Gun

Postby Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I » Fri Mar 18, 2005 6:31 pm

M4/M16A2 Hop-up spring replacement
You say: Jury-Rigging Pimp Daddie Alex, I lost the spring that pushes my Hop-Up chamber back against my gearbox, so i am having a few failures-to-feed . . .
I say: Read my instructions that follow...

So, you lost the spring that pushes back your hop-up chamber, eh? Dont fear. You know that pen you just used to replace your hop-up bucking? You get to use another part from a writing pen. See that spring? guess what, if you put a little super glue on it, or bubble gum, to hold it onto the little stud, then cut a couple coils off the spring, it will serve perfectly.

Now, with a little experimentation in your back yard, you can determine exactly how many coils you need to cut off, just by seeing what gives the most consistant feed. Pretty slick, eh?
Image
Member of the AirsoftReview Mafia
Umlaut Rabbit - 28 June 2008, Unchkin Rabbit 29 May 2009
User avatar
Pope_Alex_Kaeda_I
1337
1337
 
Team: N/A
Posts: 7477
Age: 44
Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:39 am
Location: Google makes me clever. Photoshop makes me beautiful.

Postby Riddick » Sat Mar 19, 2005 5:01 pm

OMG, Alex you are super elite!!!!!
Like us on Facebook: TBA
Check out our events: I'm coming back 2024
User avatar
Riddick
1337
1337
 
Team: N/A
Posts: 10993
Age: 48
Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2004 2:49 am
Location: Aloha, Oregon

Re: Jerry Rigging your Airsoft Gun

Postby john boy » Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:44 am

Alex,
I hope this group knows the benefit of having you around. Also, you could tell them the trick about a tappet that lost its spring hook. That we performed on friday...

John
Image
User avatar
john boy
Specops
Specops
 
Team: RAC 5
Posts: 1510
Age: 52
Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:20 pm
Location: Tualatin, Or

Re: Jerry Rigging your Airsoft Gun

Postby PanzerFaust » Mon Mar 21, 2005 1:37 am

Image

and it works
new tappet. This is a result of John W's ingenuity and is currently running in an mp5 of mine

notes: the wires need to run parallel to eachother to the square hole or it'll push too hard against the cylinder and you won't be able to reassemble it. Granted it's a temporary fix, it'll keep you in airsoft till you can aquire a f mine. Thanks again johnny!
Last edited by PanzerFaust on Tue Mar 22, 2005 2:31 pm, edited 10 times in total.
User avatar
PanzerFaust
1337
1337
 
Team: N/A
Posts: 7697
Age: 43
Images: 3
Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 1:05 am
Location: Beaverton/Aloha

Re: Jerry Rigging your Airsoft Gun

Postby Matt » Mon Mar 21, 2005 11:39 am

Nice tricks. I made this a sticky.
User avatar
Matt
1337
1337
 
Team: APST
Posts: 9651
Age: 43
Images: 12159
Joined: Fri Nov 26, 2004 3:32 pm
Location: Portland, OR

Postby Rogue Reaper » Tue Mar 22, 2005 8:14 pm

The hop up bucking. I use an old piston head o-ring that i cut in small lenghts to fit in the hopup. I have 2 replicas using this little conversion. And I have ALOT more material if I need it, as a matter of fact I could probably replace half the hopup bucks in the community with one piston o-ring.
I Like My Motorcycles Loud And My Firearms Quiet. ~ Me
User avatar
Rogue Reaper
1337
1337
 
Team: N/A
Posts: 4152
Age: 55
Images: 2
Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2004 1:49 pm
Location: WARNING : no social filter.

Next

Return to Custom Projects

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests