mosfet

[Toan]

I'm looking to purchase a mosfet for my sr-12 when it gets back up and running like its suppose to, but which one should I get? I honestly do not know what the difference is with different mosfets. Is the aeg burst wizard mosfet ok to buy?

Any help would be appreciated.

[Nec]

There are two basic types of MOSFETs computerized and non computerized.

Non computerized are just simple "rerouters". They reroute the current though the MOSFET instead of the trigger contacts. Nothing really special to them, and if your feel your electronic skills are good enough you can make yourself for around $10.

Computerized MOSFET do more than just reroute the current to prevent trigger contact damage, they have controls fire modes, I.e. 3rd burst, electro-static discharge, reverse current, auto resetting fuse, over heat protection and much more. That’s why the added cost.

Sparky D did a review about the burst wizard here. http://www.tacomaairsoft.com/forum/inde ... pic=4630.0

Personally I don’t like the burst wizard, I agree on everything Jawz says about them.

[Bulldog]

I've only ever run non-computerized fets, if you go the plain mosfet route get Active Braking as well.
Infected Airsoft makes some really nice fets as well. It was what I used to install.

[Nec]

I've only ever run non-computerized fets, if you go the plain mosfet route get Active Braking as well.
Infected Airsoft makes some really nice fets as well. It was what I used to install.

I’m glad you enjoy using a MOSFET but allow me to say a few things about what you purchased.

I have seen Infected Armory’s MOSFETs and there are good MOSFETs but just so you know the MOSFETs they sell are simple DIY MOSFETs which are something you could have easily made in your spare time in the back of the garage with limited soldering and electrical knowledge. The MOSFET chips they are using are either the IRL1404Z or the more powerful IRLB3034PBF N channel MOSFETs and for the P channel active breaking they are using the IRF4905. All of which could have been bought online from Digikey, Newark or Future Electronics, add a 100 ohm resistor and a 20k-30k ohm resistor to your order and you have the SAME EXACT MOSFET they just sold you for $25 plus shipping for under $10 with shipping. Now you probably wondering, “But I don’t know how to make them”. There are dozens of online tutorials on how to assemble and install AEG MOSFETs. Just to name a few, although they all call for slightly different N channel and P channel MOSFETs the basic construction and installation are the same;

http://ncairsoft.org/forum/showthread.p ... ding-guide
http://www.computersuki.com/projects/airsoft-mosfet/
http://legionaire.6.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=75
http://www.airsoftmechanics.com/home/co ... 23/26/1/0/
Incase you know Russian - http://www.black-wolf.ru/makenotes/makenotes014.bwc
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=32282%5C
I like this one the most, although you don’t need to install a diode if your using the IRLB3034PBF - http://unconventional-airsoft.com/2009/ ... et-switch/


Now about active breaking MOSFETs.,Personally I don’t use them, I don’t believe they are necessary unless for DMR set ups and I have several reasons for saying this;

They make the motor louder; this is due to the reverse current that’s constantly sent through the motor. This constant reverse current makes the motor stop instantaneously when the trigger is relased. I don’t know about you but I hate (with a burning passion!) noisy gearboxes and motors. My gun has to be run quietly.

Because active breaking involves an additional MOSFETs chip, sometimes more than one for highly upgraded AEGs, this makes the MOSFET two three times as big making it hard to fit into already tight battery places such as AK-74su, buffer tubes, and PEQ boxes.

Active breaking MOSFETs actually increase arching between the bushes and commutator, don’t believe me? Pick up a portable drill and pull the trigger, when you release the trigger the motor stops instantaneously due to the reverse current from the active breaking MOSFET this reverse current is a huge amount to overcome the spinning momentum of the armature. This arching can eventually destroy the commutator so much that the motor is unseable.

[Minerva]

OR you could head over to ASM and buy a AB fet from HS5 or Gandalf. Beautiful, simple and pretty newbie proof.

[Toan]

I've only ever run non-computerized fets, if you go the plain mosfet route get Active Braking as well.
Infected Airsoft makes some really nice fets as well. It was what I used to install.

I’m glad you enjoy using a MOSFET but allow me to say a few things about what you purchased.

I have seen Infected Armory’s MOSFETs and there are good MOSFETs but just so you know the MOSFETs they sell are simple DIY MOSFETs which are something you could have easily made in your spare time in the back of the garage with limited soldering and electrical knowledge. The MOSFET chips they are using are either the IRL1404Z or the more powerful IRLB3034PBF N channel MOSFETs and for the P channel active breaking they are using the IRF4905. All of which could have been bought online from Digikey, Newark or Future Electronics, add a 100 ohm resistor and a 20k-30k ohm resistor to your order and you have the SAME EXACT MOSFET they just sold you for $25 plus shipping for under $10 with shipping. Now you probably wondering, “But I don’t know how to make them”. There are dozens of online tutorials on how to assemble and install AEG MOSFETs. Just to name a few, although they all call for slightly different N channel and P channel MOSFETs the basic construction and installation are the same;

http://ncairsoft.org/forum/showthread.p ... ding-guide
http://www.computersuki.com/projects/airsoft-mosfet/
http://legionaire.6.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=75
http://www.airsoftmechanics.com/home/co ... 23/26/1/0/
Incase you know Russian - http://www.black-wolf.ru/makenotes/makenotes014.bwc
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=32282%5C
I like this one the most, although you don’t need to install a diode if your using the IRLB3034PBF - http://unconventional-airsoft.com/2009/ ... et-switch/


Now about active breaking MOSFETs.,Personally I don’t use them, I don’t believe they are necessary unless for DMR set ups and I have several reasons for saying this;

They make the motor louder; this is due to the reverse current that’s constantly sent through the motor. This constant reverse current makes the motor stop instantaneously when the trigger is relased. I don’t know about you but I hate (with a burning passion!) noisy gearboxes and motors. My gun has to be run quietly.

Because active breaking involves an additional MOSFETs chip, sometimes more than one for highly upgraded AEGs, this makes the MOSFET two three times as big making it hard to fit into already tight battery places such as AK-74su, buffer tubes, and PEQ boxes.

Active breaking MOSFETs actually increase arching between the bushes and commutator, don’t believe me? Pick up a portable drill and pull the trigger, when you release the trigger the motor stops instantaneously due to the reverse current from the active breaking MOSFET this reverse current is a huge amount to overcome the spinning momentum of the armature. This arching can eventually destroy the commutator so much that the motor is unseable.

I am using this for my sr12 DMR setup when I get it back up and running again so the size of the mosfet isn't a problem cause it will be in the full stock. I've read that some people who run the active braking mosfet, don't use the anti reversal latch...is this true? What are the pro/cons of doing it with/without the latch.

I'm not sure if I would want to build one on my own, so I'd like to just buy a good one for a DMR setup that I can plug in and go with.

[Bulldog]

I've only ever run non-computerized fets, if you go the plain mosfet route get Active Braking as well.
Infected Airsoft makes some really nice fets as well. It was what I used to install.

I’m glad you enjoy using a MOSFET but allow me to say a few things about what you purchased.

I have seen Infected Armory’s MOSFETs and there are good MOSFETs but just so you know the MOSFETs they sell are simple DIY MOSFETs which are something you could have easily made in your spare time in the back of the garage with limited soldering and electrical knowledge. The MOSFET chips they are using are either the IRL1404Z or the more powerful IRLB3034PBF N channel MOSFETs and for the P channel active breaking they are using the IRF4905. All of which could have been bought online from Digikey, Newark or Future Electronics, add a 100 ohm resistor and a 20k-30k ohm resistor to your order and you have the SAME EXACT MOSFET they just sold you for $25 plus shipping for under $10 with shipping. Now you probably wondering, “But I don’t know how to make them”. There are dozens of online tutorials on how to assemble and install AEG MOSFETs. Just to name a few, although they all call for slightly different N channel and P channel MOSFETs the basic construction and installation are the same;

http://ncairsoft.org/forum/showthread.p ... ding-guide
http://www.computersuki.com/projects/airsoft-mosfet/
http://legionaire.6.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=75
http://www.airsoftmechanics.com/home/co ... 23/26/1/0/
Incase you know Russian - http://www.black-wolf.ru/makenotes/makenotes014.bwc
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=32282%5C
I like this one the most, although you don’t need to install a diode if your using the IRLB3034PBF - http://unconventional-airsoft.com/2009/ ... et-switch/


Now about active breaking MOSFETs.,Personally I don’t use them, I don’t believe they are necessary unless for DMR set ups and I have several reasons for saying this;

They make the motor louder; this is due to the reverse current that’s constantly sent through the motor. This constant reverse current makes the motor stop instantaneously when the trigger is relased. I don’t know about you but I hate (with a burning passion!) noisy gearboxes and motors. My gun has to be run quietly.

Because active breaking involves an additional MOSFETs chip, sometimes more than one for highly upgraded AEGs, this makes the MOSFET two three times as big making it hard to fit into already tight battery places such as AK-74su, buffer tubes, and PEQ boxes.

Active breaking MOSFETs actually increase arching between the bushes and commutator, don’t believe me? Pick up a portable drill and pull the trigger, when you release the trigger the motor stops instantaneously due to the reverse current from the active breaking MOSFET this reverse current is a huge amount to overcome the spinning momentum of the armature. This arching can eventually destroy the commutator so much that the motor is unseable.

Yea I know, I bought it so long ago when I used AEGS it didn't really matter. plus back then he wasn't charging like $25 for the simple ones. Now that I don't use electric it doesn't really matter

But good advice nonetheless

[Toan]

OR you could head over to ASM and buy a AB fet from HS5 or Gandalf. Beautiful, simple and pretty newbie proof.

I'm over on the east coast of the US, so I'd have to order one online or buy from someone on here that makes them. Any useful links?

[Minerva]

Head over to http://hsarmory.webs.com/ Best fet on the market IMHO