What makes an AEG safe for LiPo use?

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What makes an AEG safe for LiPo use?

Postby pseudoanimosity » Thu Mar 17, 2011 7:27 pm

I was thinking of making the jump to LiPo batteries, and I was wondering what makes an AEG usable with a LiPo? My gearbox is solid (Shimmed G&G standard ratio gears, hardened steel bushings), but I don't have a MOFSET, will I be okay?
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Postby ScaredShooter » Thu Mar 17, 2011 8:01 pm

I think you have to be willing to spend money to repair it.

That said, I have a KWA M4 that I run an 11.1V in. I've heard stories about them shooting without fail at like 45k, and others about them breaking at 2k. No problems yet @ about 10,000+ rnds I think.. If you just like LiPos for characteristics such as being smaller, running longer, less voltage drop etc. I would suggest a 7.4v LiPo. You'll get a similar trigger response as a 9.6V NiMH.

But if you're looking for that crazy ROF, an 11.1 will do it for you. Just expect the risk. My understanding is it's a subjective guess as to what will survive, and KWA is just the only (or one of the only) brand that's crazed enough to advertise their guns with the suggestion that you throw a LiPo in them. Maybe they like the extra repair profits. When I was talking to the magician tech at AONW and trying to find a battery that could actually fit my Type 97, I almost got an 11.1 (the 7.4s were the wrong dimensions). I expressed my concern but the magician assured me that a Real Sword gearbox & internals would withstand the torque better than a KWA. So that's where I'm coming from, since RS reccomends using like an 8.4 or 9.6..

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Postby Miracle » Thu Mar 17, 2011 8:05 pm

I actually ran a G&G raider on firefox 11.1's for 5 months and used it pretty frequently.Depends on the (c) output of the lipo. Nothing failed.

Although I think it was more because I paid my taxes properly this year.... good karma.
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Postby Switchback » Thu Mar 17, 2011 8:14 pm

Just use 7.2v lipos. The insane rate of fire will burn up your GB really fast anyways, why waste the time and effort.
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Postby pseudoanimosity » Thu Mar 17, 2011 8:24 pm

Alright, well I was thinking of getting two of these:http://www.amazon.com/1800mah-Li-Polymer-Battery-traxxas-connectors/dp/B002GUR4A6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1300418571&sr=8-6 does anyone know if they'll fit in the MagPul PTS handguard?
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Postby Switchback » Thu Mar 17, 2011 8:35 pm

Yeah. They're tiny.
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Postby Braddock » Thu Mar 17, 2011 8:49 pm

I have been using a 11.1 in both of my JGs for about a year now. still no problems.
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Postby Riddick » Thu Mar 17, 2011 9:25 pm

Lipo safe or lipo ready is a sales gimmick aka technique to get you to feel comfortable about buying their product since the airsoft community has shifted towards those types of batteries. Find me data or evidence that suggests it can handle that battery versus any other brands. Kwa guns still fail on nimhs and nicads and they are one of the lipo ready advertised brands which suggest it can take the abuse but fails on the less demanding batteries. CA rifles are no different.
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Postby Miracle » Thu Mar 17, 2011 9:43 pm

pseudoanimosity wrote:Alright, well I was thinking of getting two of these:http://www.amazon.com/1800mah-Li-Polymer-Battery-traxxas-connectors/dp/B002GUR4A6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1300418571&sr=8-6 does anyone know if they'll fit in the MagPul PTS handguard?


Whoa man those batteries are probably for RC. They are 25c. You are going to have a great five minutes with those bad boys. and then feel terrible that you 1) fried your contacts or 2) had a catastrophic failure.

Its more expensive but with a stock gun you should really look at smaller (c) lipos, RC rebrands are not where its at unless you are ready for the punishment. Firefoxes run at 15c, socomgear lipos run at 11c and 13c. the voltage of the battery wont matter nearly as much as the output on wear and tear.

(c) really really does make a difference. It makes a difference in the NiCd and the NiMH batteries as well. You can still fry your contacts with a huge 9.6 in a full stock.
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Postby ScaredShooter » Thu Mar 17, 2011 9:53 pm

Switchback wrote:Just use 7.2v lipos…


Sorry to be nitpicky Switch, but there aren’t 7.2v LiPos (that I know of anyways..) :) There are 7.2v NiMHs, but Lipos come in increments of 3.7v. Everything else you said was really valid though. Again, sorry to be nitpicky.

Yeah I have a 7.4v Lipo, I really like it. I appreciate having the smallness of a Lipo without doing a torture test on my gun’s internals. Just listening to guns running on 11.1s (including mine), sometimes I can’t help but think that sounds like it will fail… A little like an F1 engine.



Just a word of caution, those are 25A continuous flow batteries, you may want to check your AEG fuse; I think a lot of the fuses are 20A so 15C or 20C is an ideal spot, from what I hear. Then again, your gun may be different, and I don’t fully understand battery tech so perhaps your gun won’t draw more amperage than it can handle.
^Edit poops he said that already my bad

Also, I argued about this in the past: if those are both 1800mah batteries, I don’t want to critique your purchase, but I’m going to critique your purchase. Cuz I’m a jerk like that.. If you have 3600mah total, I hear that’s at least 3600 shots, probably more (depending on connectors, gun guts and tons of other variables). Perhaps you want to have a weekend kit, so I’ll try not to be a complete jerk, just sayin’. I don’t know if you do your own connectors, if you don’t one of these or these could possibly be a more gooder purchase. But I don’t know in re: fit w/ your gun. Just a suggestion. Happy trails to battery bliss. Your choice of course.

One last thing, this is the battery I use. A bargain at $6.31 but you’ll have to wait a couple weeks from Hong Kong. Don’t forget to pay your $2 for insurance if you buy it. Heck I got two, rewired to deans.
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Postby somebody1 » Thu Mar 17, 2011 10:03 pm

Seriously, I know people who have 14.8V batteries, just make sure you have a mosfet, burstwizard makes the best ones.
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Postby ScaredShooter » Thu Mar 17, 2011 10:08 pm

Hahahahaha 14.8v LiPo. Yes I know someone too.

Mosfets arent everything man. There can be some serious abuse to things that don't involve the control of a mosfet. IE stripping of pistons and chewing of gears.
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Postby Payback » Thu Mar 17, 2011 10:22 pm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zOKD67eoWfQ

I saw this airsoft gi video a while ago, they test their "custom" G&G with a lipo, then go on to say one of their team uses one for months with no problem.
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Postby Nec » Thu Mar 17, 2011 10:26 pm

Pseudoanimosity, from my 2 1/2 + years of using Lipos with various brands of AEGs. What I say to everyone who asks me this very same question. "Leave your gun stock until something breaks, you will be surprised to see how long your internals will last." This whole "your gearbox will burn up with an 11.1v lipo" saying is just psychological. with that being said, I agree with Braddock.

Installing Dean connectors is the only "real" upgrade I would do.

As for MOSFETs, I don't think they are as needed as people make them out to be.

I've installed about two dozen MOSFETs, including computerized. I've also made and installed basic MOSFETs. The main porpose of a MOSFET is to reroute the current so the trigger contacts don't burn out. I've only seen one trigger contact burn out in all the time I've been using lipos and even then it's a simple $5-$10 fix. Of course if your AEG is highly upgraded (such as shooting above 400 FPS at 25 RPS) and is drawing a lot of power you might want to invest in making your own MOSFET but other than that I wouldn't worry too much about MOSFETs right now.
Last edited by Nec on Thu Mar 17, 2011 11:57 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby ScaredShooter » Thu Mar 17, 2011 10:50 pm

That was some good work Nec. I feel dumb now.
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