SlasheI2, an Aluminum piston head is really not much heavier than a polycarb one. In many years and many hundreds of guns, I have had no higher incidence of gearbox breakage in AEGs with metal piston heads than with polycarb ones. If weight were an issue, you should eliminate the bearing, as it contributes much more to overall weight than aluminum or polycarb head construction.
The piston head never hits the cylinder. It does hit the cylinder head, but, again, an aluminum one isn't going to cause your gearbox to crack. Having poor compression will. Having a weak gearbox shell will.
However, I do have to thank you for using readable grammar, even if I disagree with you.
Some G&P pistons snap, but it's usually in stock G&P gearboxes, and is due to the engagement angle. When used in aftermarket applications with proper installation, I've never had the back tooth of a G&P piston break. They are a little softer than some other pistons, and I've eaten the middle teeth out with some bad jams.
I personally like the
Modify Polycarbonate Piston. I've had excellent results with it in every AEG I have installed it in. It also has the best track record in a G&P M249 known for breaking pistons. Shogun really likes the standard
CA Yellow Piston. It is flexible so the rear tooth won't break off in high ROF setups. However, you
must remove the 2nd to last tooth (2nd one from the back) so that the sector gear can engage properly. Both Shogun and I have had good results with the
Echo1 Hard Prometheus Style Piston as well. It's a direct copy of the Prometheus piston, including the strengthened side rails next to the teeth.
I personally like the
Modify Aluminum Bearing Piston Head, but if you want a polycarb one, the
Modify Polycarbonate Bearing Piston Head is good as well.