Buying a G&G Blowback M4... Anything I need to know?

[Grease]

Anything bad about the gun, that is?

This is the model I'm about to buy; http://www.airsoftoutletnw.com/index.ph ... &Itemid=28

Figured I'd ask you guys if you've heard/seen anything horrible about them, before I spend the money.

Or any reason I shouldn't get one, for that matter.

[pseudoanimosity]

I've had mine for over a year, with 50k rounds through it. The only stock part that broke was the piston.

It's the same as any other airsoft gun, it you take care of it, it will last. If not, don't expect it to go forever.

[Payback]

I just got one used, they are good starter guns, easily upgradable. The blowback tho is not that great, it really doesn't improve much or offer that much more.

They wont be extremely accurate out of the box, but again, easy fix. Also, the only bad thing i had, and have saw allot of, is the trigger fails. $20 part, and somewhat easy fix.

I would recommend it. Unless you have a kwa budget. But you can't beat it for the price.

[The Giggler]

This is probably just me, but I had a problem with the fuse. But that was probably just because I ordered from airsplat
Anyway the G&G M4's IMO are great guns for the price

[wurger]

The only EBB guns I've heard anything good about are the CA guns (LWRC models specifically). The KWA guns look decent (if you can trust promo videos), but who knows when they will actually hit the stores.

If you're on a low budget, stay from EBB guns. Just more crap to break, for a minimal return.

[icebullet]

Meh. I thought mine was okay. Excellent starter gun. I would suggest moving away from the blowback, as I discovered that metal bodies do not fit on said gun.

Now I'm out of 117 dollars. It was a nice G&P one too. :/

[CommieHunter]

The only EBB guns I've heard anything good about are the CA guns (LWRC models specifically). The KWA guns look decent (if you can trust promo videos), but who knows when they will actually hit the stores.

If you're on a low budget, stay from EBB guns. Just more crap to break, for a minimal return.

The G&G models run a pneumatic blowback which doesn't put any additional stress on the gearbox. It actually doesn't interface with the gearbox mechanics in any way. Honestly, there's nothing to break.

Aftermarket metal bodies won't fit without modification. I do know one guy who modified a MadBull metal body to fit, but he may have disabled the blowback to do so.


Honestly, I don't think there's any reason NOT to get one. They've been phenomenally durable.

[Nec]

I've worked on a few in the past, good guns. There are a few things I would like to say about them.

The blowback system makes them difficult to take apart compared to other blowback systems and non blowbacks.


The cylinder has a small hole on the top for air to power the blowback system; keep in mind if the cylinder gets turned or shifted at all you will have a huge drop in FPS. Also replacing the cylinder with one that isn't designed for the G&G blowback systems will disable the blowback system.

I have a few confirmed cases of G&G gears breaking under upgraded conditions, i.e. 11.1v lipos and m120 springs. However I have come across many G&G's which have been kept stock and ran for years without a hitch.
Here are the latest two cases, both were ran with an 11.1v Lipo on a stock spring.



The fuse for the fuse box, isn’t a standard fuse that you can get at an auto parts store. I have yet to find a replacement fuse.

G&G AEGs use smaller, 18AWG wire compared to most other brands which use 16AWG wire. You may find the wire getting hot after a couple thousand rounds while using a lipo or upgrades.

Motors are pretty poopy, under stock conditions they can hold their own but the magnets aren't strong enough to take much in the way of upgrading, i.e. high speed or high torque set ups.

The gearbox comes sock with relief holes drilled in the front of the gearbox, this is to prevent the front of the gearbox from cracking which is an all to common problem for the version 2 gearbox design. I have yet to see a G&G version two gearbox crack even under upgrades.

The paint on the metal bodies is very durable, it isn't easily scratch. IMO much better than CA.

[Mr. Technicality]

I have a mostly-stock G&G Combat Machine as my backup primary. There isn't a single thing I don't like about it. Well worth the money.

[Grease]

Alright, so as not to pollute this forum with my threads...

What are your opinions on the 2009 G&G GR16 Carbine? I just bought a used one for $180 (with like, $150 worth of random other stuff included). I found the craigslist add about an hour before I was planning on buying the blowback gun. Apparently the guy bought it, only to have most of his buddies give up airsoft a couple months later. So it was in like-new condition.

I almost want to call BS on the thing being stock. The ROF is unholy, the trigger response is lightning fast, and the FPS appears to be around 380-400. It isn't too accurate*, but the range is great (The hopup can practically shoot BBs straight up when I fire straight ahead of me)

The guy said he spent $275 on it when he got it, but I can't find anything that matches that any more. The only GR16 I can find is their sportline, for $170-$180.



*would it be stupid to put a 455mm barrel in a gun designed for 363mm barrels? I've got a barrel extension/mock suppressor that would make my outer barrel about 2 inches longer than the 455mm barrel. A 455mm 6.01 would help with the accuracy problem, assuming I wouldn't be killing my FPS with the extra length.

[Nec]

What are your opinions on the 2009 G&G GR16 Carbine?

The tribe has spoken. Read and compare, due to quailty control differences your results will vary.

[Minerva]

Couple things nec, First off, did that gun ever get opened and shimmed via the bevel? Or was it done the traditional spur way? You can tell the shimming was off by the grease patterns on the spur gear in that first picture.

Secondly, I think most middle of the road brands use 18awg. Some higher end brands I have found 16awg in, and actually some lower end ones too. Which ones have you found 16awg stock in? Because I usually end up replacing the entire harness with some 16awg PTFE silver plated wire and it'd be nice to find a reliable manufacturer who has some decent wire stock

Third, did that come with that much grease in it?

And Grease, really as long as you have a good hop up setup then barrel length past 363mm is just for looks. If you want to go ahead but you have to switch the cylinder out to match the extra barrel length

[Grease]

And Grease, really as long as you have a good hop up setup then barrel length past 363mm is just for looks.

Good to know...

If you want to go ahead but you have to switch the cylinder out to match the extra barrel length

Which means I'm probably too lazy to use a longer barrel, then.

[Hutch]

Great gun for the price, I had mine for well over a year and a half. Go buy it.

[Nec]

Couple things nec, First off, did that gun ever get opened and shimmed via the bevel? Or was it done the traditional spur way? You can tell the shimming was off by the grease patterns on the spur gear in that first picture.

The first picture was a G&G m4, running stock and never opened before that picture was taken. It had less than 12,000 rounds on a 11.1v lipo. I don’t see how that gear was improperly shimmed; the grease pattern is just inconsistent. Interestingly the bevel gear did not have any broken teeth; this leads me to believe the spur gear was poorly made.

The second picture is of the G&G blowback m4 (from the gearbox pictured), it was opened up and shimmed and greased at 10,000 rounds, lasted another 20,000 rounds on non lipo battery. When I got the gun it was said that it was running louder than normal. Opened up the gun and found the two gears stripped.

Secondly, I think most middle of the road brands use 18awg. Some higher end brands I have found 16awg in, and actually some lower end ones too. Which ones have you found 16awg stock in? Because I usually end up replacing the entire harness with some 16awg PTFE silver plated wire and it'd be nice to find a reliable manufacturer who has some decent wire stock

Most of the manufactures I’ve worked on are 16AWG. Again most, there are a few brands out there, which I can’t remember the names of, but they use 18AWG. I work on mostly JGs, and they all have 16AWG, I’ll be it there are differences between thicknesses of insulations.

Third, did that come with that much grease in it?

No, it didn’t. I put grease on the gears because the owner said it was “noisy” and because it was dry as a bone when I got it the first thing I did was put grease on it, spun it a few times by hand and noticed the stripped gear. I usually wipe of the grease so there is only a thin film.