Increasing the range on my AEG

[Bircher]

What is the best way to increase range? stronger spring? If it makes a difference my AEG is the G&G GR15 Raider-XL

EDIT: I remember looking at battery types somewhere on here, if someone could post that link on here that would be great.(im talking like differences between Ni-mh and Lipo ect.)

[Jester316]

The battery won't affect your range. Unless you are asking unrelated to range, in which case there are numerous threads on here about batteries; utilizing the search feature will be beneficial.

Things that affect range: barrel, hop up rubber, hop up unit, air seal (this contains numerous parts that I won't list), bb weight, bb "perfectness", bb size (not all bb's are the same size), and fps.

Keeping a lower FPS will reduce the strain on your gearbox and give your gun a longer life. It will also increase your ROF.

You can get great range with a low FPS set up (I've done it numerous times). I suggest getting a better inner barrel (although I seem to remember something about G&G's having a tight bore already), and a better hop up rubber (Madbull Blue Bucking seems to be the recent fad). Those parts do not require you to tear into the gearbox to change out.

[ScaredShooter]

Ughhh... So much on this in these forums. I would start with a bucking that is softer. You'll have to change it out more often, it becomes more disposable but accuracy requires maintenance.

I suppose hypothetically a lipo or battery with quicker semi-auto response could increase your effective range, since there is less trigger delay and you can pop off shots more immediately. This starts to become somewhat significant with longer shots.

[DJ]

What is the best way to increase range? stronger spring? If it makes a difference my AEG is the G&G GR15 Raider-XL

EDIT: I remember looking at battery types somewhere on here, if someone could post that link on here that would be great.(im talking like differences between Ni-mh and Lipo ect.)

Before you monkey with it, have you measured what it shoots now? Due to the limitations of the spherical projectile (BB) and lack of rifling in the barrel, there is only so much distance you can expect to get. Most of what the others have said will help if you have less than optimal performance with the gun now. Measure, chrono, and determine your baseline. Then you can determine what if anything will help. Its very tempting to spend $$$ on gadgets that may or may not actually help. Good luck with this.

[Jester316]

The free way to ensure you make those critical hits is to get closer to the person. I see it way too much when kids are sitting back 20' past their max range, complaining about people not calling hits, while I'm standing out in the open 30' in front of them not getting hit.

[CommieHunter]

On the G&G Raider series, the barrel is not great. Replacing both the barrel and hop-up bucking will give you noticeable accuracy and range improvements if you adjust the hop-up well.

In addition, replacing the hop-up unit with a new one can give you increased consistency as well.

Check these out:
MadBull Blue 60 Degree Hop Up Bucking
Modify M4 Hop Up Unit (Honestly the best M4 hop up chamber in my opinion)
MadBull 6.03mm Black Python Tightbore Barrel 363mm


On a side note, many high-end G&G guns (EBR, M14 Veteran, SIG 550, Top Tech models) come with tightbore barrels. The basic raider, combat machine, and plastic body versions do not.

[Payback]

Check these out:
MadBull Blue 60 Degree Hop Up Bucking
Modify M4 Hop Up Unit (Honestly the best M4 hop up chamber in my opinion)
MadBull 6.03mm Black Python Tightbore Barrel 363mm

I have these 3 exact upgrades in my M4. I get an amazing distance with it. I've never actually measured it, but usually if people are shooting at me and their bb's are dropping 30 ft short, i can easily toss a 5rnd burst and take them out. And it is very accurate as well with the distance.

[Evil Zergling137]

Going from 350fps to 400fps (with .2g) gives you only 11-12 ft more range.

With .28g bb it becomes a 16-17ft range boost. Basicaly it travels that many feet before the BB has slowed down to 350fps.

As always you need a good hopup unit to use the range, but the best way to increase your range is to shoot at the field limits and use heavy BBs.

I have recently redefined range for myself. Instead of it being the max distance you can place a bb I now consider it the max distance you can place a bb where it will hit with enough force for them to call it.

[Jester316]

]With .28g bb it becomes a 16-17ft range boost. Basicaly it travels that many feet before the BB has slowed down to 350fps.

I'm not sure if I'm interpreting this wrong, of if you wrote it wrong...

But a .28g bb will not reach 400fps out of a gun that shoots 400fps with a .2g bb.

[Bircher]

The question about the batteries is a seperate question, but im asking what types of batteries there are I remember reading a thread on here and it was talking about like what each type of battery does and such and im trying to dind that thread again. and thanks for the advice on internal upgrades

[Ivan Daylovich™]

The battery provides power to the motor. That's what all batteries do.

[Jester316]

I was going to write all this out, but looks like someone beat me too it. Read this and learn:

How does an AEG work?

The diagram below shows the 'guts' of an AEG. This is the inside of the Mechbox in all its glory, with all its components still in place.



Figure 1 - The AEG Mechbox

A: Spring Guide
B: Spring
C: Piston
D: Cylinder
E: Cylinder Head
F: Air Nozzle
G: Tappet Plate
H: Trigger Switch
I1: Sector Gear
I2: Spur Gear
I3: Bevel Gear
J: Anti-Reversal Latch




In the cutaway diagram above, parts A through to F are responsible for the shooting of the BB. Parts G through to J are part of the reloading mechanism. When it is all working together, this is what happens...

The trigger is pulled by the shooter, which closes an electrical switch (H).

A Ni-Cad or Ni-MH battery pack (similar to those found in Radio Controlled Cars) powers a small motor (located beneath the Mechbox and meshing with the bevel gear (I3)).

The motor turns the bevel gear anti-clockwise, which in turn causes the other two gears to rotate - the spur gear clockwise (I2), the sector gear anti-clockwise (I1).

As the sector gear turns, its visible teeth mesh with the rack on the underside of the piston (C), pulling it back. This compresses the spring (B) and stores the energy required for the shot. At the same time, the small white circular notch (the cam), offset on the face of the sector gear, connects with the rear-section (the tappet) of the tappet plate (G). This pulls the tappet plate and the connected air nozzle (F) backward about a centimetre, allowing a BB to enter the barrel.

As the piston is drawn all the way back, the tappet plate is released, pushing the BB forward into the breech (the BB's starting point in the barrel).

As the sector gear continues to turn, it will run out of teeth that can hold on to the rack on the under-side of the piston. As this happens, the piston is released.

As the piston flies forward under the pressure of the spring (B), it compresses a column of air in the cylinder (D). This air is squeezed through the air nozzle, in to the barrel, propelling the BB forward.

If semi-automatic fire has been selected, the sector gear activates an electrical cut-off as it returns to its starting position. This stops the cycle where it started ready for the next shot. If fully-automatic fire has been selected, this cut-off simply does not engage, allowing this cycle to be repeated over and over until the trigger is released.
Important Note: If shooting in fully-automatic mode, power to the circuit is cut as soon as you remove the trigger. Remember that the internal mechanism could be in any position at this point and the parts could be under considerable strain imposed by the spring. It is recommended that users shoot two semi-automatic shots to make sure the gun is reset correctly, before storing your AEG.

Throughout all of this, the non-return latch (J) stops the mechanism from moving backward. As mentioned above, when using fully-automatic mode, the moment you let go of the trigger could be at any stage during this cyclic process. If the spring is compressed at that moment, it will try and push the piston forward and the rest of the mechanism backward. This could be disastrous for the tappet plate (G).

If the cam pushes the tappet from below, as would happen if the mechanism were operating in reverse, the tappet is likely to snap off, as there is no opportunity for the mechanism to absorb this pressure. This would render the AEG unusable as no BBs would be taken from the magazine while shooting. Replacing the tappet plate is cheap, but not very easy, so this latch is a very important bit of kit to have inside the Mechbox.

[phiz]

BB weight, velocity, hop and range:
http://msed.bbbastard.com/index.php?opt ... &Itemid=59

0.25, 350 fps, flat to 125 feet
0.25, 400 fps, flat to 145 feet

[CommieHunter]

This 9.6v 1600Mah Battery is a great pick if you don't want to use a lipo. The Lipo will have more power, but requires more care (i.e. over-discharge prevention and a special charger).

With the stock motor in those guns, this 11.1v 1300Mah Battery will not be too fast, and will fit in the buffer tube.

The other option is to upgrade the motor and stick with a 9.6v battery.

[Jester316]

BB weight, velocity, hop and range:
http://msed.bbbastard.com/index.php?opt ... &Itemid=59

0.25, 350 fps, flat to 125 feet
0.25, 400 fps, flat to 145 feet

That's all well and good in a sterile environment. But with wind, angle of shot, crap/dirt on/in the bb/hopup means that those numbers cannot be trusted. Yes, that is the pure math behind it.