Merchant wrote:
You also want to shoot for consistency. A rifle that is shooting all over the place in FPS will lend to inconsistent shots, so breaking the rifle down to the gearbox and making sure every seal is perfect is ideal.
That's basically what you want to do. at Fallout last weekend I chronoed my scar at 406, 406, 407. That kind of consistency is what you strive for because you want the hop up to strike the BB the exact same way, and have the bb leave the barrel the exact same way each time, so that there (in theory) is no variation between your shots.
Don't expect to end up with a 1 moa grouping at 50 yards, but if you can shoot 10" groups at that distance, that's all you really need for airsoft.
the parts I put in my G4 were:
KWA 2gx bucking
madbull 455mm 6.03 tightbore barrel
King Arms full metal hop up
Modify spring guide w/ bearings
G&G Piston head w/ bearings
CA High torque motor
rewire to 16 gauge
Extreme-Fire Panther-SW MOSFET
Deans connectors
Modify M120 spring
In addition to these things, you'll want to seal your hop up and cylinder the way the guide illustrates. Also, shim your gears to improve ROF and trigger response.
I still run the stock ratio G&G gears for a high RoF on full auto in case I get bored laying in the bushes.
My battery of choice is the Tenergy 20c 1600 MaH 11.1v LiPo. You can get these on Amazon for around $35. If LiPo's aren't your thing, you can get a custom pack built at
http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com for around $20-$30.
"No compromise, not even in the face of Armageddon, it's always been the difference between us, Daniel."